170 responses

  1. Primrose
    August 13, 2010

    Great job Jami (and Brian):) It’s very cool looking and very impressive for the time and cost. I’ll look forward to the in-person tour next time we’re in OR!

    We LOVE love love not having a carpet in sight in the apartment we’re renting now! It has laminated wood flooring which is not quite the real deal, but it’s close. Most importantly, it’s very easy to clean and easy to keep clean. And, like you said, it makes the place look bigger and brighter.

    • anna
      November 23, 2013

      any idea of the durability, if you do not use throw rugs or carpets?? Thanks, Anna

      • Jami
        November 23, 2013

        The floors have lasted for years for us, Anna! We do have rugs on them, but there are plenty of areas that show and get wear.

  2. ana
    August 13, 2010

    i have yet to watch the video, but just wanted to say i share your hatred er, disgust, i mean, dislike for carpet. awful for allergies, they create dust and as the underpad breaks down with use, you end up breathing all that in!

    ok, off to learn more about your technique. looks interesting…

  3. Denise
    August 13, 2010

    This is amazing and the tutorial looks great. Thank you so much for sharing. I’m not sure I’m ready to pull up my carpets just yet but should we ever move to another house (which I want to one day) this will be great to remember.
    Your bedrooms look awesome :)

  4. Amanda@The Hand Me Down House
    August 13, 2010

    WOW! This is so interesting. You guys put together a really wonderful video tutorial, too! I would have never thought of doing this — so I’m absolutely amazed. I think I’ll be imagining this in my house the rest of the day. :)

    Thanks for sharing! The room looks great!

  5. mpierce
    August 13, 2010

    My sister-in-law used this same technique on one of the walls in her house and it turned out great!

    You could probably do this on furniture and all types of things!!

    Love your site!

  6. Angela (Cottage Magpie)
    August 14, 2010

    I’m so with you about carpet! We went ahead and ripped ours out even though we didn’t know what we were going to do to replace it–right now we have painted subflooring because it was better than carpet! So I watched your video and immediately got my husband to watch it too and we’re thinking about using your technique! Great stuff, thanks so much for sharing!
    ~Angela :-)
    (A fellow Oregonian)

  7. AngieB
    August 14, 2010

    This is the most fabulous idea! The floor in my pantry is HORRIBLE, but I just haven’t been able to scrape the money together to tile it. I’m giving this a try ASAP!

  8. Kira
    August 16, 2010

    What a great technique! I am planning on renovating my tiny half bathroom (15 sq. ft. – seriously!) this Fall, and might give this a shot. Question: do you think I could do this right over the vinyl flooring I have now? (It’s in perfect condition, just a dated pattern.) Or do you think that’s too much of a shortcut and would really impact the quality of the results?

    • David
      March 12, 2014

      I doubt it would stick very well on the vinyl flooring.
      Before you start and waste time and money on the floor, if you have a small piece of the vinyl try it on there first and if it sticks well, go for the short cut.

  9. Remodelaholic
    August 17, 2010

    Did you say you did this in another house? How well did it hold up? Also, I would love to know if it was okay for resale? Email me if you get the chance, I would be really thankful!

    Either way, we love this party link and I wanted to let you know that we are planning on featuring it. We hope that you get a bunch of new visitors. (tomorrow @ 12:00)


  10. Lisa
    August 16, 2010

    How do you clean it?

  11. andwhen
    August 16, 2010

    I wonder if you could use white paper to give it a more modern look? Or, perhaps you could forgo tearing the paper and lay it out in big rows. Anyone ever try something like that? Great post and video. Thank you

    • Zoe Jussel
      December 13, 2012

      Another idea is that the heavy butcher paper DOES come in colors if you want a different look. I have found burgundy, mustard and other colors, so might try a color technique on the wall after doing a floor. Can’t wait to get started!!!1

    • Joanne M
      May 17, 2013

      The polyurethane may yellow your white paper idea…be careful. I made a table in college and painted it white and then polyurethaned it to protect it but it yellowed it.

    • Johanna
      October 10, 2013

      I too want to use white paper but want to know if this has been done and where do u get the paper?

  12. Jami @An Oregon Cottage
    August 17, 2010

    Wow- so glad you guys are liking this idea! Here’s some answers to your questions:

    Kira- I probably wouldn’t do it over vinyl- it doesn’t seem like it would stick as well to the glossy surface.

    Lisa- I clean it like I clean wood floors: vacuum regularly and mop with just water when needed. The polyurethane covers the paper completely.

    andwhen- I think it would look great using white kraft paper! You’d just have to vacuum more often (and not have black, hairy dogs…). I’ve not seen it in strips, it gets harder when the pieces are bigger, though, so keep the pieces easy to handle and glue down. The torn edges and random sizes allow for easy application- more room for mistakes! :-)

    Remodelaholic- Thank you! It lasted well and was received well by our buyer of our last house (I emailed you as well).

    Amanda- Thanks, I’ll be sure to stop by!

    El Marginalio- yes, it would work just the same on plywood as particle board, I believe. You may want to sand first if it’s not smooth, though.

  13. Amanda
    August 17, 2010

    I just wanted to stop by and let you know that I linked to this post today from the new Home & Garden channel at Craft Gossip. :) My hope is to share many of the fabulous projects I see everyday with the vast CG audience. I hope you will not only stop by and subscribe to CG, but will tell your friends about the new category! Hope you see some traffic from it!

    Your feature will appear in the main Craft Gossip RSS feed, on the main home page and can be found directly here

    If you would like a “featured by” button, you can grab one here!

  14. Brandy
    August 17, 2010

    I’m a new follower. This is amazing, something I never would have thought of!!! Wow!

  15. Karlie
    August 17, 2010

    Oh Jami, you may have just saved me. I love the idea. We need to re-carpet before we put our house up for sale. My kids have a small room and I think this might work. I’ll let you know!

  16. El Marginalio
    August 17, 2010

    How do you think this technique would work on a plywood sub-floor? Great post!!

  17. Nancy :)
    August 18, 2010

    Amazing! I have seen this done on walls using tissue paper but never on floors. I’m going nuts right now trying to figure out where I can do this! What a great idea!!!
    Thank you so much for sharing it.

  18. Michelle
    August 18, 2010

    Jami – Maybe crazy is the wrong word … truly this is one of the niftiest things I’ve seen in a long time! I am going to be doing a remodel in our home office soon and I told my husband that this is what I’m doing for the floor. Thank you for the inspiration! (BTW – love the blog – it has become one of my favorite reads!)

  19. Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
    August 19, 2010

    Idfritz- I think that’s one of the nice things about this- if you ever want to install wood (or, heaven forbid- carpet :-), it would go right over the top with no problem. About the only thing you couldn’t do would be to paint it- but not many people do that to subfloors, anyway. I’ve never even imagined it with fabric- I think you’d have a problems with edges fraying and not laying smooth. Probably wouldn’t have that leather-look also. Interesting idea.

    As far as renovations go, this is a pretty inexpensive one, even if it’s just for a few years before you can afford something else. But as I said in another comment, we sold our other house with this flooring in the upstairs and the new family thought it was cool. Again, though, even though I’ve been surprised at how well it’s worn, I still can’t recommend it for high-traffic areas as there are still some bumps that with a lot of traffic can get worn down. That said, it’s easy to fix areas with a piece of paper and more poly! Best wishes on your upcoming marriage!

  20. ldfritz
    August 19, 2010

    I saw this post on remodelaholic and I thought it was a super cool idea. I’m getting married in three weeks and my fiance and I are seriously thinking about doing this in the main portion of the house we’re going to be living in. We do have a couple questions:
    1. How hard is this to undo – if we ever decide to do something else is this going to be a bear to cover over/rip up?
    2. Have you ever tried using a different material than paper? Do you think this technique would work with fabric? I know it would be more expensive to buy fabric but we want to be smart about what “renovations” we make to the house.

    This is an amazing idea! Thank you so much.

  21. ♥ Calamity Anne ♥
    August 20, 2010

    What a fantastic idea!!! I finally got fed up with our carpeting a few months ago, and yanked it all up. Since then I’ve been looking at concrete floors, but your idea may be something for the interim until we can afford to put down wood flooring! Thanks for sharing!!!

  22. Tracy DeLuca
    August 21, 2010

    My parents did this on the floor of our house when I was little! But, they just used brown paper bags from the grocery store! It held up really well, it was still in perfect condition when the house was demolished about 7 years later.

  23. Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
    August 22, 2010

    Tracy- You’re the first person that I’ve heard of who had this on a floor! Good to know it held up so well, too. Thanks.

  24. Allison @ House of Hepworths
    August 23, 2010

    I LOVE this! It looks so amazing!!!

  25. Hog Wild Jewelry
    December 28, 2010

    i did this years ago with it on my bedroom walls! it looked amazing. i painted the pieces shades of pink with gold accents and then wrinkled the paper. I put it on the wall with wallpaper paste and voila! what a great idea for the floor though. Thanks!

  26. Brooks & Dana Tucker
    January 8, 2011

    What a great idea! My husband and I own a faux painting company and we have done this technique many times for walls and ceilings, but would have never thought about it for floors. To add a little more depth and character you might consider rubbing on a wood stain before the polyurethane. Great post! I’m sharing it on facebook.

  27. info
    February 5, 2011

    Hi Guys!

    Myself and my wife tried this brown paper flooring in our sunroom which has a smooth finish concrete floor and am a little worried that we have done something wrong but yet have followed all your directions.

    Our floor still has the wrinkles and it’s been just about a week since we did it…we haven’t put the finish on it yet as we wanted to see how it was going to look before putting the finish on it, I guess my question is, do you know if some of the wrinkles will pull out when we apply the finish? or should we try and take it all up and start again? Thank you!

  28. Jami @An Oregon Cottage
    February 7, 2011

    Info- I’m sorry! We’ve never tried it on concrete, and my guess is that the concrete is not acting the same as particle board or plywood. On these surfaces the paper should smooth out as it dries- and then wrinkle up again after applying the finish before drying completely. It then has a few bumps here and there, but is mainly smooth.

    Since this doesn’t sound like your experience with the concrete, maybe there’s too much moisture in the concrete?(I’m just throwing out guesses, here…) I’m not sure I can recommend anything for you, not having experience on that surface other than to try some other flooring. Ugh, so sorry.

  29. Teri
    March 10, 2011

    I noticed the wood subfloor. Will this technique work on concrete floors?

  30. Teri
    March 10, 2011

    oops, I just noticed that my question is already answered with previous comments.

  31. Rachael@Lovely Crafty Home
    March 13, 2011

    Hey Jami, thanks for your comments on my stairs! I basically bolt for B&N and read all the current issues over a Starbucks latte before they cool down from the press LOL. I actually have to refrain from reading the ones I get in the mail- there is such a delay!

    I hope you’ll check out my upstairs (with stain)…hopefully I’ll post on that this week!

  32. Kendra
    March 20, 2011

    I just love this idea. I used it on my bathroom counter top and it came out just fantastic! Thank you. I will be doing some floors with this idea.

  33. Mommysews
    March 27, 2011

    Someone asked about fabric… this should work just fine with fabric. The fraying mentioned shouldn’t be a problem as the the edges are sealed first with glue, and then with Polyurethane. The paper that goes down doesn’t tear after it is finished, thus the fabric wouldn’t fray.

    In regards to vinyl flooring … this should work just fine. Anything that can be decoupaged normally (think glass jars that we all made in Kindergarten, wood boxes, etc.) can be decoupaged as a floor. If sticking is a concern, there are primers made that are “super-stick” that could be applied ahead of time.

    People have asked if the floor can be removed … If you installed vinyl or hardwood or laminate or ceramic or any other type of flooring, it would have to be pulled up before reflooring (or covered over). This is just the same. You just can’t re-expose whatever the subsurface of the floor you covered (i.e. if you did this over vinyl, you couldn’t ever re-expose the original vinyl).

    Have fun with it!

  34. Lacy @ Catholic Icing
    April 29, 2011

    What a great idea! Love it!

  35. southernbellehome
    May 11, 2011

    Jami, Thanks for the inspiration to try this project! Here are a couple of things that I learned while covering our 370 sq. ft. room. After you crinkle the paper, it will go down much easier if you iron each piece with a clothes iron. If you have a floor that already has a coat of poly on it (we had a painted floor), you can use poly for your glue and it works very well! If you use a squeegee to squeeze the air and excess glue from under the paper after gluing it to the floor (but before putting glue on the top), the floor will dry with very few wrinkles. I’m not sure how to place a pic of our floor on this post, but if you want to see the result, you can visit our blog. Again, thanks for such a $ saving idea! You rock!

  36. Athena at Minerva’s Garden
    May 14, 2011

    This is a great idea, and I’d like to try it, but we have a concrete floor in the room I’m considering. I would be really interested in anyone’s experience who has tried this successfully on a concrete floor. I did read the comment above about the folks who tried it on concrete, but it sounds like they applied it to bare concrete. I’m wondering if we painted the concrete floor first, and then tried to apply the paper technique, if that would work better. Or I wonder if applying a coat of polyurethane directly on the concrete first, and then applying the paper technique would work. Or is there something else we could or need to do to prepare the concrete in advance of applying the paper to it? Anyone have any experience with this in terms of concrete flooring? Thanks for any suggestions! It’s a fantastic idea, Jamie, and I’d really like to try it!

  37. Anonymous
    May 26, 2011

    Okay, I’m in the throws of talking my husband into doing this to our ENTIRE HOUSE, all 2100sqft upstairs and down PLUS the stairway. We have crappy 2003 whitish/super light beige carpet with stains galore and ugly dated linoleum in the kitchen and bathrooms. Do you think it would look better to do a uniform color throughout the house or do you think doing a variation color such as a lighter creme color paper in a bathroom or transition to kitchen would look okay? We’re also going to paint all of our trim white during the process as it is this horrible light brown color that looks like a mix of grey and brown. Ick.

  38. Jami @An Oregon Cottage
    May 26, 2011

    Southern Belle- Great tips! The squeegee one is especially appealing…

    Athena- Sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner- I think the main issue with concrete is if it’s on top of dirt or not. Moisture will come up from the dirt, so that will always be an issue, I think. If it’s not directly on dirt, I don’t think it would be a problem, but sealing it first would be a good idea, too.

    Anonymous- Goodness, that’s a lot of work you’ve got ahead of you! I’m of the firm opinion that as long as there’s a door or some line of change, the floors in all the rooms can be different- do what you’d like! Also a couple of readers have had great success with applying a floor stain after gluing the paper (but before the poly) to create a cool, darker look. And the white trim will look great- I think you’ll be very happy (once all the work’s done). :-)

  39. Anonymous
    June 30, 2011

    I have just finished my staining and there are blotches. I was especially careful to spread the stain evenly and not drip as I pulled the brush from the can. Oh well…this is a learning experience. I do love the squeegie idea also as I have some wrinkles that I don’t think will go away.
    Thanks for this idea. I’ve been walking on (and getting splinters) on particle board for a year. I just never had the money to refinish. This is the perfect solution.

  40. Marie
    July 3, 2011

    What a innovative idea..Considering this for my son’s bedroom which has icky carpet and we have no $$$ to replace. Wondering though, what happens when furniture is scooted and moved around on it.

    Also, someone mentioned doing this to their bathroom counter. Is it really durable for a bathroom counter?

  41. Jami @An Oregon Cottage
    July 4, 2011

    Anonymous- I haven’t tried staining myself, yet, though I plan to- sorry! Wonder what the difference is?

    Marie- The floor is not as bad as wood floor in terms of scratching, but you still need to be careful- we use felt on the bottom of furniture and basically treat it like a wood floor.

    And I have no idea about a bathroom counter top. My gut says paper + water = no, but I’ve heard from people who’ve tried it in unconventional places with success. It all boils down to how desperate you are to get rid of what you don’t like! If you see it as a quick, cheap, temporary fix for something ugly, then I always say to go for it. :-)

  42. D @ Shady Porch and Sweet Tea
    July 26, 2011

    I’ve done this to a wall before but I would have NEVER thought of the floor. It looks great!

  43. Inspire Me Heather
    August 4, 2011

    Your floors look just fantastic – great video too. I linked it to my hardwood floors project post today, for inspiration!

  44. Anonymous
    August 11, 2011

    Love this idea! I have kids with horrible allergies and we have wanted to get rid of the nasty carpet. Your idea is amazing!

    My questions are…I have never walked on a subfloor before. Does this technique make your floors/stairs cold? How would you transition the subfloor to tile? (Our great room goes from tile/carpet/tile.)Do the wrinkles “stub” toes or feel uncomfortable on the feet?

    These are all questions I have to ask so I can get the hubby on board! Thanks for the ideas!

  45. Jami @An Oregon Cottage
    August 11, 2011

    Anonymous- The subfloor isn’t usually the only layer of flooring, so I’ve not noticed it being cooler at all.

    When we transition from one flooring height to another we simply use wood thresholds you buy from home improvement stores- stained, if needed, and sealed the with poly.

    Hope that helps!

  46. heatherthomps
    September 16, 2011

    I love this! What a brilliant idea!

  47. Jami @An Oregon Cottage
    October 17, 2011

    Beth- So glad you like it! If you use the water-based polyurethane, the smell is minimal – truly. Oil based poly smells awful and I would’ve left the house, too. :-)

    Still, everyone’s different, so I’d suggest trying a little somewhere to see how you think it smells. It doesn’t bother me at all.

    Hope that helps!

  48. Beth
    October 17, 2011

    1st of all, I LOVE this idea! Thanks for taking the time to make the video as well. It’s really boosted my confidence in trying this myself. Before I do, I need to know if the polyurethane smells. We tried painting the floor with a urethane paint, but the house smelled so bad that we had to vacate for 3 days. I just had a baby, so that’s not an option. Any chance this isn’t going to run us out of our home?

  49. KellyinNC
    October 22, 2011

    Love this idea and I am dying to try it. We are getting ready to move to my Mother-in-laws childhood home that my husband recently inherited. The house has beautiful original hardwood except in one hallway and the kitchen/breakfast area, which are an AWFUL 1970′s old yellow stained linoleum. I know you don’t suggest high traffic areas but I was wondering if this would work as a quick temporary fix until we can afford to tile or lay more hardwoods?? The linoleum is killing me! Also! Along with the old linoleum I am also inheriting old stained cabinets and RUST ORANGE formica countertops and backsplashes. Any quick temporary fixes for those issues?!?! Paint??

    • sarah
      December 14, 2012

      Gianti Granite. for countertops…

  50. Jami @An Oregon Cottage
    October 23, 2011

    Kelly- This would be perfect for this! I think I said in the video that it held up great on some stairs that I didn’t think it would. I still can’t recommend it “officially” because everyone has to take the chance on their own, but I had great results with it and this is tailor-made for temporary fixes.

    And yes- paint the cabinets AND the counters!! Google painting counters and you will find folks who did it successfully and their recommendations of what worked best. I’ve seen some great things done for little money (but lot’s of elbow grease!) that totally transform a kitchen. Go for it- I think you’ll love the results!

  51. laswan5
    November 7, 2011

    Lottsa comments! I don’t have time to read them all right now but I’ll get back to it. I love this application for the floor! I live in an old travel trailer by myself and no pets. I’m thinkinking of doing this to my floor. Problem: the old vinyl is one piece all the way under the cabinets to the outer walls. I think it would be a big job and maybe a disaster to try and take the vinyl out or even to try and cut it along the cabinet base. So I think I’ll try to do it on top of the vinyl. You have any thoughts on that?

  52. Jami @An Oregon Cottage
    November 7, 2011

    Laswan5- I think this would be a great solution for your vinyl. Maybe do it in a test spot first, just to make sure it adheres, but it’s glue, so I think it should. :-)

  53. Laurie
    December 26, 2011

    I read where someone put some tea in the glue and water mixture to give it some color. What do you think about tea or coffee? Or maybe some wood stain? That would be easier than staining it before the poly. Not the same but non the less some color. What do you think?

  54. Jami @An Oregon Cottage
    December 27, 2011

    Laure- I did just hear about someone who tinted the glue with water-based stain and they really liked the outcome. They did a number of tests first to get the color they liked, which I always encourage people to do. Definitely easier than staining separately!

    Do try test patches with your different ideas- and don’t forget to let us know how it came out!

  55. Kimberly Gunter
    January 15, 2012

    Jami & Brian, I saw this video and excitedly told my husband we were gonna try it in an upstairs bedroom! I cut the old carpet up and threw it right out the window….THAT was a welcome sight….I absolutely despise carpet and with only 2 rooms in the whole house with carpet, I’m thrilled to get rid of it. We just finished placing the last piece of paper…literally, just about 10 minutes ago. I kept your video up on my computer for inspiration. And boy am I glad I did! I started last night and was immediately disappointed because of the bubbles in the paper…I wasn’t expecting the bubbles so soon and feared I was doing the application entirely wrong. By this morning, that area had dried and looked FABULOUS!! Soooo, we jumped right in on the remaining bare floor and I am almost paralyzed from being on my hands and knees all day…….but we are so excited to see the transformation. Now, we’re just waiting until tomorrow evening to apply the first coat of polyurethane. With the high cost of hardwood flooring, we are very appreciative that ya’ll posted this video. Thanks so much!!

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      January 15, 2012

      Kimberly- I SO know the feeling of seeing that carpet leaving the house- always a welcome sight to us as well. :-) I’m also very glad to know this is working for you- thanks for letting us know!!

  56. Danyelle
    January 17, 2012

    Can I do this over linoleum?

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      January 19, 2012

      I’ve never done that, but since it’s just glue and poly, I would think it could be done- if the linoleum is in good condition and there aren’t a lot of bumps and raises in the surface design (most things show up when the paper dries). I recommend to do a test patch in an out-of-the-way spot and see what it looks like!

  57. Anonymous
    January 18, 2012

    I love this it looks so amazing , and I was wondering if it could be on concrete also or should I just go over the old floor, its old sticky tile (very old), I guess what im really asking is do you think it would stick better to the old tile or concrete? Help please I really want to do this for my guess room , Thanks !

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      January 19, 2012

      I’ve only done this on plywood subfloors, so I don’t know for sure. I know that others have used it on concrete and they’ve had success using just poly to glue the paper down (by-stepping the watered glue) which apparently adheres better to the concrete. It may go over the tile – if you could do a test somewhere and see the results, that would probably be best!

  58. Anonymous
    January 23, 2012
    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      January 24, 2012

      I’ve been asked this a lot. I think it’s “your mileage may vary” kinda thing – depending on how your dogs are and everything. Some dogs don’t do well with anything, lol.

      Our dog hasn’t been on the floor- he’s not allowed in the bedrooms – so I can’t say for sure. What I can say is that the coats of poly cover pretty good- you can always add more coats, as well. AND if there is a spot that gets torn, it’s easy to repair: tear a new piece, crumple, and adhere with a brush full of poly (no glue). Let dry and add another coat or two and you’ll never know it was there. And THAT’s something you can’t say about any other floor, except maybe painted! :-)

  59. Anonymous
    January 31, 2012

    This looks awesome and the video is great!! I was thinking of doing this with white paper, maybe adding a little stain to the glue..

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      February 1, 2012

      Yes! I’ve just heard from a reader who used the stain in the glue and they said they really liked how it turned out. It was with brown paper, so I’d do a test on a piece of wood to see if you like the white with the stain look.

  60. Michelle
    February 8, 2012

    I wonder if you used wood grain paper (saw some at paper mart that comes in 100′ rolls)and cut it into rectangle strips to create a wood plank look? Also after seeing your tutorial I did some research and noticed that some people who have done this don’t use glue at all and just use the poly for the whole thing. Have you tried that? Also can you do this over a fake wood vinyl floor?

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      February 8, 2012

      Hmmm…I’ve never seen paper like that. I think as long as it isn’t too “fake looking.” Also, the paper develops crushed-type marks with this method, so…?

      Yes, I’ve read that people have by-passed the glue and just use the poly (I guess it really helps when using it over cement) but there’s one reason I don’t: cost. The glue is a LOT cheaper than the poly. :-) Your choice.

      I’ve only tried this on subfloors. My advice is to try a test area (or piece if you have leftover pieces somewhere) on anything that’s not plywood/particle board so you can see what it does.

  61. Anonymous
    February 16, 2012

    When I saw this on pinterest.com, I was thrilled! Our 1920′s bungalow has old wood floors that are in terrible shape, but we don’t have the budget to refinish them. I love the leather-look of this remodel and can hardly wait to head over to Home Depot for my brown paper, glue and stain. Thank you so much for an easy, inexpensive–yet beautiful idea!

  62. Anonymous
    March 8, 2012

    Loved your video tutorial, great tips. You have inspired me to rip all of our carpet out and begin the task. Prep is always the hard part. We finished one room, well we are on coat four of poly. We seem to have a bunch of wrinkles left. Three days post glue. Our sub floor is plywood. Is this normal? Just wanted some reassurance before we begin room two! Thanks in advance

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      March 8, 2012

      I always think it looks awful, too at the beginning. The wrinkles always subside for me after coating with poly and letting it sit for a week. They continue to relax even after that, though there will always be a couple of wrinkles- though nothing that bothers us. :-) Hope that helps!

  63. Anonymous
    March 9, 2012

    Thanks a bunch, my husband was relieved to hear it. The wrinkles have been weighing heavy on his mind. Again thanks for all your helpful info. It’s really great.

  64. Anonymous
    March 12, 2012

    I just did this for my boys room and it is wonderful! Thank you for sharing this video, my daughters room is next.

  65. Lisa
    April 14, 2012

    I LOVE this idea! We already have hardwood flooring throughout our house (lucky I know, 1950′s cape cod!) but I HATE the concrete in the basement. We were thinking of doing the epoxy, but I don’t really like the look. So…I’m going to do a test, where I put down epoxy to seal the floor, then do the kraft paper and poly. I’ll post and say how it turned out!

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      April 14, 2012

      Oh great, Lisa! Do keep us posted- applying to concrete is one of the questions we get the most. :-)

    • Anonymous
      May 19, 2012

      Lisa- I’ve been waiting for another post to see how the epoxy on the concrete worked for you. We want to do this for our sons room but our floors are concrete and I want to “go to school” on you before we start! Someone- please let us know how this is working on your concrete floors! We’re scared but desperate too get rid of this nasty carpet!

    • Anonymous
      May 19, 2012

      I’m anxious to know if the epoxy worked! Please let me know! I want to do my son’s room but don’t want have to redo! This sounds perfect for this room!

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      May 20, 2012

      I wrote on our FAQ for the floors (link in sidebar) that I know of people who’ve successfully applied this to concrete. The key is to only use the poly- no glue/water. Just brush on the poly like I do with the glue in the video, apply paper and brush over, let dry and then coat with coats of poly. While I haven’t done it myself, I’ve had a couple of people tell me it worked for them. Good luck! :-)

  66. Clayton W
    April 15, 2012

    I’m in the thick of a home remodel and already tore out the hideous carpet in our master bedroom. I’ve had several ideas about alternatives to traditional flooring but love your approach. I did a proof of concept test in the window ledge/alcove and my family is so impressed I got the green light to do more…however…the subflooring isn’t remotely flat and has soft (weak) spots. I’m about to tackle that, and thought I’d relay another useful website I found for others in my situation. It involves putting down an additional layer of plywood (blah), but the floor will be flat and if I do it correctly, quieter for those downstairs (I plan on adding an underlayment, like when putting down wood floors upstairs): http://www.oneprojectcloser.com/how-to-level-a-plywood-or-osb-subfloor-using-asphalt-shingles-construction-felt/

    If it looks and works half as good as the alcove, I’ll be happy. Thanks for your blog! -Clayton

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      April 15, 2012

      Glad your family is letting you proceed, Clayton. :-) Thanks for the idea and link about fixing the subfloor – our first house had a pretty uneven floor, but not so bad that we couldn’t prep with some sanding and filling. Love to hear how they turned out!

  67. Robin
    April 20, 2012

    Love this idea – just wondering if you have ever tried cutting the craft paper into strips much like wood floor planks and putting it on the floor similiar to a wood floor application in appearance?

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      April 20, 2012

      Check out the FAQ I linked to at the top of the post- this question is answered there! :-)

  68. Ksteagall
    April 25, 2012

    I’m sad :(. I did this in my 200 square foot dining room after watching your video literally ten times! Anyway it is a complete failure. I did everything exactly as the video showed and the only thing I can think of is maybe I didn’t press down enough when gluing the paper. Even though I really thought I did? It’s been almost a week and four coats of polyurethane and it’s wrinkled terribly! Any advice Jamie?

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      April 26, 2012

      Ugh! So sorry you are sad about this. First off- don’t give up yet. Wait a couple more weeks and see if the wrinkles disappear – that’s what happened to me when I did our son’s room. I even wrote a post here called “Floor Failure” and then had to retract my words later! Go ahead and read it for encouragement. :-) What was your subfloor? I think pressboard (what ours is) takes longer to fully dry than plywood.

      Second, I have found there are less wrinkles when I use smaller pieces of paper. But then it takes longer…

      My fingers are crossed for you!

  69. Ksteagall
    April 26, 2012

    Your right about the paper size because when I started I used smaller pieces and by the time I finished I found myself using much larger pieces. I am so not giving up just yet though! After I posted my comment I happened upon your “floor failure” blog (as I remembered it being mentioned in the video) and it made me feel so much better! My floor looks just like that so I’m waiting two weeks before tearing it up. And I am going to do it again! Yes I am a determined woman lol! I’m remodeling an entire kitchen (500 sq ft) for less than a grand is my goal, just for fun! I’m calling it my faux kitchen complete with painted countertops (to look like granite), paper flooring, painted “tile” look linoleum and faux glazed maple cabinets. So far the cabinets look amazing, thank you for your blog I LOVE IT!

  70. Linz
    May 10, 2012

    Hi there –

    Wanted to thank you for your video. We referenced it while doing our bedroom floor about 6 months ago. I just blogged about it here:


    We did plank style strips of brown kraft paper, stained it, and we love it.

  71. RinaMarie
    July 2, 2012

    Hello! I found your video when I was searching for creative things to do on top of subfloor, and I LOOOVE this technique! We applied it in my kids room last week and I LOVED the look of it… until we did the polyurethane. :(
    Before, it looked like a beautifully textured floor. Now, it looks like wet, wrinkly paper. I know you mentioned that the wrinkles should come out, but I was wondering about the poly shine that makes it look wet. Is there a brand of poly that you recommend? We’re thinking about doing this in our other two bedrooms (even a shiny wet paper floor is better than the alternative!) and I’d like to make sure we do it right, this time!

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      July 3, 2012

      Hey there, RinaMarie! I’m glad you tried the technique – I hope your wrinkles will continue to relax, as mine did.

      As for poly, we use the Varathane brand and always get the satin finish. We’ve not noticed a “wet” look when using the satin finish. What finish did you use?

  72. RinaMarie
    July 3, 2012

    Thanks for responding so quickly, Jami! We used RustOleum (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=431). It says “clear gloss” so I wonder if that’s where we went wrong. This is the second day since we applied the poly, and the wrinkles are already relaxing and I’m definitely happier with it (although we can still practically see our reflection in the floors!) Will definitely try the varathane next time! Thanks so much!

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      July 4, 2012

      Oh, that’s it- the clear gloss finish is always shiny and ‘wet’ looking. You’re OK with the brand – doesn’t matter if it’s RustOleum or Varathane – just make sure to get the satin finish.

      So glad you’re happy with the results – SO much nicer than nasty flooring, huh? :-)

  73. Anonymous
    July 8, 2012

    Can you apply poly with roller? if so which roller would you use?

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      July 8, 2012

      Hi there! You can find the answer to this, plus many more question on the FAQ For Brown Paper Floor page linked at the top of the post. Hope that helps-

  74. Living Quarters On a Dime
    July 27, 2012

    Hi, Jami! I used this same technique on my entry stairs and it completely transformed the space. The stairs were previously covered in carpet but I knew I wanted them to be wood with a runner. However, hubby was not thrilled with replacing the treads, possibly the risers, and for sure the balusters so I had to find something to do to the existing stairs.

    Hop over to my website to take a look at the transformation that ended up being under $150!!!! Soooo excited : )


    I linked your page to it as well, thanks for the help!

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      July 27, 2012

      Great job! Your stairs (and stairwell) look fantastic!

      • Terra Murray
        August 7, 2012

        Thank you! I have received countless compliments on them and I am very pleased with the way they turned out. Your video was extremely helpful!

        Keep up the good work : )

      • Jami
        August 7, 2012

        Wha-hoo! So glad to hear – thanks!

  75. Anonymous
    July 29, 2012

    Can I do this over concert floors?

    • Jami @ An Oregon Cottage
      July 29, 2012

      Please refer to the FAQ page referenced at the beginning of the post for a detailed answer to this and many other questions about this flooring technique!

  76. dee
    August 3, 2012

    Thanks for the tutorial! Could I do this in my tiny bathroom? Would you recommend oil-based poly for a bathroom or kitchen instead of the water-based that you use? Both my kitchen and bath need help, and they are so small that I wouldn’t mind ‘fixing’ spots as they wear…I was just worried about water, especially in the bathroom, softening huge areas etc. Do you know a solution?

  77. dee
    August 3, 2012

    nevermind jami don’t post my question…i got what i needed from your faqs :)

  78. Cheryl
    August 24, 2012

    Do you think fabric would work as well?

    • Jami
      August 24, 2012

      I’ve never tried it, though in crafting, decoupaging fabric creates a texture – and I remember the edges would fray…so I guess I don’t know. :) My suggestion would be to try it on a piece of plywood or something.

  79. Hollie
    September 6, 2012

    should I use the sealer like you used in a bathroom? or should I use one that takes longer to cure? Thanks

    • Jami
      September 7, 2012

      I haven’t done this technique in a bathroom, Hollie, but I’ve heard from a couple of readers who have. The water-based poly will seal just as well as an oil and won’t leave the greased spots that oil-based can. I would only ever use water-based.

  80. Sharon Hastings
    January 1, 2013

    Just recently discovered you tube and found many videos to learn different things I can do on with brown paper as have been working with the paper for many years. I hane a suggestion that is more work but worth it. I use several glazes to paint the paper and dry. Tear the paper and put in water, let it get good and wet then wipe off excess, paint the glue on and lay on floor, with a rag smooth out wrinkles and you will get a flat surface. Let dry thoroughly and seal. …I started out doing vases, walls, have a secret ingredient instead of wallpaper paste that can easily be removed and will not damage your walls. For that reason I do not seal it and has been on the walls for many years. Will send pictures if I can figure out how to. Maybe you can help. You might try this on samples first. Let me know, anyone who reads this at [email protected], please post in the heading re paper as delete if I think it is junk mail. Sharon

  81. carrie
    January 23, 2013

    I wonder what it would like like with pink or turquoise craft paper for a girls room?

    • Jami
      January 23, 2013

      Probably really cool and creative, Carrie!

  82. Kolbi
    March 11, 2013

    I basically used your technique this weekend and wanted to say thank you! I changed it a bit by using a book instead and I used my hands instead of a brush to apply the glue and smooth the pieces down.

  83. Bill Espinosa
    April 15, 2013

    WOW! We have been living on sub-floors for a year and a half now. Just didn’t have the cash to invest into the floors. I googled alternative floors last Tuesday, I showed my wife Stephanie and we dove in. This truely was a God send for us, Thank you sooooooo much! Saturday morning Steph and I started tearing paper and crunching them up in to a barrel. By Saturday at 5:30pm the dinning room was papered.. We used smaller paper which took a lot longer to put down, Steph instead of using a brush used her hands to smooth out the paper/glue mixer. The sub-floor is OSB so it’s not as flat of a surface as plywood but we like the effect. We were going to stain it however when we woke up on Sunday it has turn a chocolate brown with darker veins. We loved the look! So no stain. I have put 2 coats of water based poly on it yesterday. The living room is next! Had kinda of a kraft paper crunch party yesterday afternoon, which yielded 4 rolls of crunched paper in to a 55 gallon trash sack for use this Friday and Saturday ( 4 more rolls to go sometime this week ). Thank you Thank you Thank you!!

    • Jami
      April 15, 2013

      Awesome, Bill!! This is so good to hear – and we totally felt the same way when we first did it years ago. :) I’m cheering you on as you finish – enjoy your new floors!

      • Bill
        April 21, 2013


        608 sq ft completed! Dinning, living room and Steph’s office. Steph papered all the rooms, I am very proud of her. It looks great, my wife is so happy. Moved furniture in this morning. We used 850 sq ft of paper, 4 gallons of glue and 5 gallons of poly. We applied 6 coats of poly. We used smaller pieces of kraft paper approximately 8″. For less than 400.00 and a lot of time (4 days total), we have a great floor.
        Thank you again Jami!

        Best regards,
        Bill and Stephanie Espinosa

      • Jami
        April 21, 2013

        Wow, it sounds great, Bill – congrats! And it sounds like a ton of work all at once – all I’ve ever done is one room at a time. :)

  84. Billie
    May 17, 2013

    can this be done on a concrete slab floor?

    • Jami
      May 17, 2013

      Hey Billie – please check out the FAQ page link at the top of the post for answers to this and much more!

  85. Megan
    June 15, 2013

    I just used this tutorial to do this with comic book pages on my son’s floor. Thank you so much for the info. If you want to see pictures http://www.facebook.com//572678262765049

    • Jami
      June 16, 2013

      Very creative idea, Megan – as long as your son okay’d the comic pages used. ;)

  86. Krista
    June 21, 2013

    I know this is an older post but i must say i love the idea, i wanna try this in my bathroom i think it would look with my frogs and bamboo thats in there

    • Jami
      June 22, 2013

      It’s still super popular, Krista, and I get lots of comments and emails on this diy project! Go for it, it sure is a conversation starter, too. :)

  87. Karlin
    August 27, 2013

    I’ve never been overly adventurous but am stepping out into new territory here. I’m thinking of using this technique on the back side of glass as a tub surround. Any comments or advice?

    • Jami
      August 27, 2013

      It’s basically decoupage, Karlin, so it should be okay as long as it’s sealed behind the glass with no chance of water leaking in. Sounds very interesting!!

  88. Nicole
    September 2, 2013

    I really want to do this in my house. However, the one thing that is holding me back is the dry time. The problem is I want to do my hallway and living room. The hallway leads to my own bathrooms, two of my bedrooms, to my stairs and my kitchen. I don’t know how I can keep my family away from all these areas for a long period of time. Any suggestions or answers would be appreciated!

  89. Mandy
    September 6, 2013

    Hi, I have tried this with old scores of music on a wall and it looks amazing. Im also wanting to use on my house in france but unfortunately our floor is concrete. The other issue is Im not sure what the French equivalent of polypropylene – any ideas anyone?

    • Jami
      September 6, 2013

      Hi Mandy! Have you checked out the FAQ page linked at the top here? There’s a section about doing this technique on concrete – readers have had good luck with it when they use only the poly to glue the paper down and then coat. Is there any type of home stores there where you can see what they offer for coating wood floors? That’s what you need – in a water-based application, though. Here’s hoping you can find something! :)

  90. Jen
    September 9, 2013

    Has anyone with neighbors below them (I’m in a top floor condo) done this? My big concern other than how time consuming this will be is noise. I only plan to put it in the bedroom and den, but I do have dogs that wrestle and play in the bedroom and I worry that there may even be additional noise (creaking/squeaking) from walking. Would love to hear from anyone on how noisy it is.

  91. Kelly R
    September 18, 2013

    Hey just wanted to thank you for this tutorial I am about to start gluing down the paper in my daughters new room less the nasty white carpet!!! Crossing my fingers!

    • Jami
      September 18, 2013

      Let us know how they turn out, Kelly (though I’m sure almost anything is better than nasty white carpet, ha!).

  92. April
    January 13, 2014

    Do you think you could do half of the room and later do the other? If so, would you do the poly all at once or can you completely finish one side then the other?

    • Jami
      January 14, 2014

      You probably could, April, though I don’t know if a line would be visible. If your goal is to be able to set furniture on one half of the room, you’ll need to poly half, let cure, move furniture and then repeat the process. Other than that, I’m not sure. :)

      • April
        January 27, 2014

        My thoughts were to do a hallway to completion, then move on to the adjoining room without using a threshold. Just wondered if it would turn out ok. If I overlapped the adjoining areas, I guess it wouldn’t be much different than repairing a tear….as far as appearances. Thoughts?

      • Jami
        January 27, 2014

        You can certainly do that, April – I think it would look fine. My one suggestion if you know you will be overlapping an area later is to leave the edge with uneven pieces of paper – not a straight line – so when it was time to join the two areas, it will look a bit more seamless. ‘Course, you probably already though of that. :)

  93. Jeanette
    January 30, 2014

    I did this method 2 years ago within 6 months it was tearing and coming up.

    • Jami
      January 30, 2014

      Sorry to hear that, Jeanette! That has not been our experience – our floors in this house are 3 and 4 years old and look the same as the day we finished them. They are, however, in low-traffic bedrooms which is what I recommend in the video.

      Many readers have told me they’ve done it in higher traffic areas (some whole houses), but I don’t have any experience with how that would hold up. I do know, as I stated, that we had stairs done in our old house that were used quite a bit and looked great. I can only testify to how they hold up for me, applied like I described. Again, sorry your flooring didn’t hold up as well. :(

  94. Becky
    February 3, 2014

    What about countertops?
    My decor throughout is very country,and I was wondering if it could be applied to countertops

    • Jami
      February 3, 2014

      I have not done that, Becky, so I can’t recommend it or comment on it’s durability. I can say, however, that a few readers have told me they’ve done this and that it held up fairly well and was easy to fix the places if something did come up with use. Diy projects are often a matter of trial-and-error. :)

  95. Sharon
    February 7, 2014

    Can I add color to the paper before I put it down? What did you use at the door frame or threshold? I am totally going to do this when it gets warm. My daughters carpet is disgusting. I want a little bit of color though. What about dogs? Do they scratch the floor?

    • Jami
      February 7, 2014

      Lot’s of people stain the paper before sealing, Sharon. Read the FAQ page for more info on that. We just used an oak molding stained to match our wood floors as a threshold – anything that works for you is good. I think some people with dogs have commented about how it holds up, but if you put an area rug, there’s not much floor left to show in a bedroom. :)

  96. susan nichols
    February 10, 2014

    Have you ever heard of anyone doing this in a home that has wheel chairs in the home? We are very hard on our floors. We live on a farm and take in and adopt special needs children. (five still at home) I home school so we are home all day every day on our floors. We recently got money back from a local store for flooring they sold us that was supposed to hold up for 15 years and didn’t even come close to that in holding up. I just didn’t know if the moving around of the wheel chair would tear it up as when one turns their wheel chair it kind of pulls on the floor. Great idea and post. Am going to do this on a few walls in the home and as a back splash in the kitchen. Would like to do a few floors as well but wanted to check if anyone with wheel chairs has tried it and how it held up. Thanks so much! Blessings!

    • Jami
      February 10, 2014

      I haven’t had anyone tell me this, Susan, so I can’t say how it would hold up. Sorry!

  97. Laura G.
    February 10, 2014

    There are so many different Kraft papers out there! I’m having an issue figuring out which one to use. Is there a certain weight I should be looking for? Some are 40lbs while others are 60lbs.

    • Jami
      February 11, 2014

      I’m sorry I don’t know about the weight, Laura – I just always buy the ‘builders paper’ that Home Depot sells. One time it was thicker than normal, though, and the floor didn’t turn out well, so I would suggest the lighter pound kraft paper. You want to be able to easily crumple it, as it’s the creases where the interesting lines and texture come in to play.

  98. Sharon
    February 16, 2014

    I added an oil based stain to my glue by mistake (home depot guy told me it was water based). I want to know if I can cover it or should I rip it up? Just in closet, not whole floor. How do I rip it up?

    • Jami
      February 17, 2014

      You probably can just cover it up, Sharon. That’s what I would do in a closet. :)

      • Sharon
        February 17, 2014

        Thanks so much. I’m so excited to do this. My niece is doing it and now so is one of my co workers. Three different approaches. My niece let her daughter and family members draw on the paper first. I am using a stain and cut out lettering of my daughters name and my coworker is planning on putting paw prints on hers. All should look good. I’m considering the hallway and stairs.

  99. claudia alvarado
    February 25, 2014

    Hi! Just getting started on prepping my son’s floor. I am noticing a lot of grooves and such from the staples. Did you use wood filler at all, or do you think it would work fine without. Thanks!

    • Jami
      February 26, 2014

      I filled large gaps and holes, but not the little holes left from staples, Claudia. Those won’t be noticeable. :)

  100. Latrecia
    March 4, 2014

    This is brilliant! I saw your video on this last year and kept it on my mind. Now that I have the opportunity to redo our floors I’ll be using this! Thanks!

  101. allison
    March 6, 2014

    Hello! I have a quick question. I did this to a floor – concrete base.. and I used a water-based Polyurethane..- alot of coats. But, now, when you walk on the floor with rubber soled shoes, it makes that awful squeaky sound. Have you heard of this issue? I am now afraid to do this in other areas that are even more high traffic than this first bedroom.

  102. Nancy goodin
    March 7, 2014

    Any ideals for a kitchen floor that gets wet a lot

  103. Malinda
    March 10, 2014

    I actually did this and I love the final results. I however had several challenges, which required me to repaper 3 different times. It was definitely a learning experience and I sure wish I had known some of the things before I started. :) I actually wrote a blog about my experience in case anyone else is thinking about doing this. I learned a few good lessons. http://apurposefulpath.blogspot.com/2014/03/my-first-paper-bag-floor-test-and-learn.html

  104. Trudy Humphreys
    March 15, 2014

    Can you use this paper on a concrete block wall?

    • Jami
      March 16, 2014

      No idea, Trudy! :)

  105. Daniella
    March 16, 2014

    Do you happen to recall what pound of kraft paper you used?

    • Jami
      March 16, 2014

      Sorry, the paper we bought at Home Depot is just called “painter’s paper” and doesn’t have a poundage on it that I could see. Wish it did, as a few years later they changed brands and the new stuff was thicker and harder to crumple, which resulted in a look I didn’t like as well. So go for the lightest you can that is still kraft paper so it crumples nicely – that’s what gives all the leather-like texture after drying.

  106. Claudia
    March 17, 2014

    Hi Jami! I did this to my son’s bedroom this weekend and I love it! I actually don’t mind the wrinkles, I think they give the floor personality. If they end up going away, I won’t mind either. I do have a question, there is a spot that had tiny bubbles from the Verathane, is that fixable? thanks!

    • Jami
      March 17, 2014

      Hmmm, I always use a brush rather than a roller in order to not get bubbles in the poly – and I haven’t had this problem, Claudia! Maybe if you google it there is a solution? So glad you are liking it – my son loves his floor. :)

  107. Kor
    April 5, 2014

    How cold is it though? We tried to do just concrete in TX but when the snowy winter hit we froze in the house and succumbed to buying wood on loan to cover it over. If we do several layers of paper/glue with days in between to dry, do you think it stays pretty warm?

    • Jami
      April 6, 2014

      It seems to me the temperature of wood floors, but then we’ve always done it on plywood or pressed wood, Kor. I wouldn’t say it’s warm, though, so not sure that’s your answer. What about laying area rugs that you roll up for the summer?

  108. Miguel
    July 20, 2014

    I’ve looked over and over for paper floor at application . On new wood sub flooring , so fair only your on you tub , hit my need , know hear is my question , I won’t this look all throw my beach home , in other applications going over concrete , clam you can stain the paper peices to a D sire shade other then keeping the natural color of the brown paper , is this the case also with your application if desired ? And should I stain each Peice first befor I lay them on the wood sub floor ?

    Thanks very much
    Sincerely Miguel S.

    • Jami
      July 21, 2014

      If you want to stain the paper floor, Miguel, you can apply it after the first step: applying it with the glue-water mixture. Let that dry completely and then stain the entire floor using a staining pad. Let that dry completely and then coat with the polyurethane product. Hope that helps!

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